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Recipes
Published on by New Directions
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AHA and BHA Moisturising Lotion Formula
Suitable Packaging: Bottle, Airless Pump.
Formula Number: NDFL0012016
Application:
- AHA/BHA Lotion with Fruit Acids
Note:
- New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.
| Phase | %W/W | Raw Material | Function |
| A | 62.4 | Deionised Water | Solvent / diluent |
| 0.1 | Disodium EDTA | Chelating agent to help preservative work better | |
| 3 | Glycerin | Humectant | |
| 0.25 | Xanthan Gum | Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser | |
| Heat phase A to 70-75°C. Mix until clear and until the xanthan gum is fully hydrated | |||
| B | 6 | Fractionated Coconut Oil | Emollient |
| 2 | Macadamia Nut Oil | Emollient | |
| 2 | Beeswax | Emollient | |
| 2.5 | Shea Butter | Emollient | |
| 1.3 | Glyceryl Stearate Citrate | Emulsifier Secondary | |
| 2.2 | Emulsifying wax vegetable (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) | Emulsifier Primary | |
| 0.25 | Allantoin | Soothing, anti-irritant | |
| 1.5 | Salicylic Acid | BHA | |
| Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below. | |||
| C | 1 | Plantaserv P (Phenoxyethanol,Caprylyl Glycol) | Preservative |
| 15 | AHA Fruit Acids | Active AHA | |
| 0.25 | Natural Vitamin E | Antioxidant for product and skin protection. | |
| 0.25 | Perfume of choice | Aroma | |
| Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream | |||
| D | qs | Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to 3.8-4.5 | AHA treatments work best at pH less than 4 but if the pH is too low the product will be very irritating. We suggest a pH of 4-4.5 for retail products or 3.8-4.2 for salon products. For home use, use the higher pH. |
| Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. Adjust as necessary to pH 3.8-4.5 using citric acid to bring the pH down or Sodium Hydroxide to increase the pH. | |||
| TOTAL | 100 | ||
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Lotions, New Directions Starting Point Formula
Published on by New Directions
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Body Lotion Organic Recipe
Application:
- Body Lotion Organic
| PHASE | % W/W | RAW MATERIAL | QTY |
| gms per Kg | |||
| A | 84.7 | DEIONISED WATER | 847 |
| 0.2 | XANTHAN GUM | 2 | |
| 0.1 | DISODIUM EDTA | 1 | |
| 1 | SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE | 10 | |
| 1. HEAT PHASE A TO 70 - 75c, DISPERSE XANTHAN GUM USING HOMOGENISATION | |||
| B | 0.5 | ROSEHIP OIL | 5 |
| 4.5 | AVOCADO OIL | 45 | |
| 2 | EVENING PRIMROSE OIL | 20 | |
| 5 | EMULSIFYING WAX - VEG | 50 | |
| 1 | NATURAL VITAMIN E | 10 | |
| 2. HEAT PHASE B TO 70 - 75c | |||
| 3. ADD PHASE B TO PHASE A USING SILVERSON FOR 10MIN | |||
| 4. COOL TO 45 - 50c | |||
| 5. CHANGE TO SWEEP ACTION | |||
| 6. COOL TO 35 - 40c | |||
| C | 1 | PLANTASERV Q | 10 |
| 7. ADD PHASE C TO BATCH | |||
| D | LACTIC ACID | 0 | |
| TRIETHANOLAMINE | 0 | ||
| 8. ADJUST pH TO DESIRED LEVEL. | |||
| 9. COOL TO ROOM TEMPERATURE | |||
| E | DEIONISED WATER | 0 | |
| 10. ADJUST VOLUME/WEIGHT TO COMPENSATE FOR WATER LOSS DURING MANUFACTURE | |||
| TOTAL | 100 | 1000 | |
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Body Care Recipes, Lotions
Published on by New Directions
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Flower Water Facial Lotion Recipe
Application:
- A mild and wonderfully fragrant facial lotion for every skin type
Ingredients:
- 118 gram orange blossom water
- 2 tsp. Honey
- 2 drops bergamot oil
- Yield: about 4 oz.
Instructions:
- Heat the flower water, dissolve the honey in it, fill it into a bottle.
- Add the essential oil, and shake the contents well.
- This recipe can be combined with lavender water, rose water, orange blossom water, and the essential oil fragrances that best suit your type.
- Lavender water harmonizes with lemon, orange, clary sage, and rosemary; rose water harmonizes with bergamot, geranium, jasmine, patchouli, rosewood, and sandalwood; orange blossom water harmonizes with bergamot, geranium, lavender, neroli, clary sage, and petitgrain.
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Face Care Recipes, Lotions
Published on by New Directions
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Facial Lotion and Body Lotion Recipe
Application:
- This basic recipe for four ounces of facial lotion can be individualized by adding essential oils; a body lotion can be made simply by increasing the recipe volume.
Ingredients:
- 40 gram avocado or jojoba oil
- 30 gram rosewater or another flower water
- 30 gram lanolin
- 20-30 drops essential oils
- Yield: about 112 gram
Instructions:
- Heat lanolin in a double boiler until a thin liquid is obtained.
- Add the vegetable oil and stir slowly over medium heat.
- At the same time, heat rosewater to the same temperature.
- Then slowly add the rosewater to the other mixture while under rapid continual stirring.
- Before it cools completely, add the essential oils and mix again briefly.
- Pour into a bottle and store in a cool place.
- Choose essential oils that correspond to your skin type.
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Body Care Recipes, Face Care Recipes, Lotions