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AHA and BHA Moisturising Lotion Formula

 

Suitable Packaging: Bottle, Airless Pump.

Formula Number: NDFL0012016

Application:

  • AHA/BHA Lotion with Fruit Acids

Note:

  • New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.

Phase %W/W Raw Material Function
A 62.4 Deionised Water Solvent / diluent
  0.1 Disodium EDTA Chelating agent to help preservative work better
  3 Glycerin Humectant
  0.25 Xanthan Gum Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser
Heat phase A to 70-75°C. Mix until clear and until the xanthan gum is fully hydrated
B 6 Fractionated Coconut Oil Emollient
  2 Macadamia Nut Oil Emollient
  2 Beeswax Emollient
  2.5 Shea Butter Emollient
  1.3 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Emulsifier Secondary
  2.2 Emulsifying wax vegetable (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) Emulsifier Primary
  0.25 Allantoin Soothing, anti-irritant
  1.5 Salicylic Acid BHA
Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below.
C 1 Plantaserv P (Phenoxyethanol,Caprylyl Glycol)  Preservative
  15 AHA Fruit Acids Active AHA
  0.25 Natural Vitamin E Antioxidant for product and skin protection.
  0.25 Perfume of choice Aroma
Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream
D qs Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to 3.8-4.5 AHA treatments work best at pH less than 4 but if the pH is too low the product will be very irritating. We suggest a pH of 4-4.5 for retail products or 3.8-4.2 for salon products. For home use, use the higher pH.
Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. Adjust as necessary to pH 3.8-4.5 using citric acid to bring the pH down or Sodium Hydroxide to increase the pH.
TOTAL 100    
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Soothing Lip Balm Recipe

 

Application:

  • This wonderful lip balm is traditionally known for healing dry, cracked, sore lips.

Instructions:

  • Melt the beeswax and cocoa butter in a bain-marie on the stove.
  • Add the jojoba oil and honey, keeping the mixture over the heat.
  • Once the mixture is liquid, remove it from the heat.
  • Using an electric hand mixer, stir the mixture to ensure the honey is well dispersed in the mixture and does not sink to the bottom.
  • Once the mixture begins to cool, stir in the essential oils and infused oils.
  • Pour into 3g make-up jars with lids.

Storage:

  • For immediate use. Store in a cool environment away from direct sunlight & use within a few weeks. If extended storage is required, please ensure adequate levels of preservatives, antioxidants or other additives are used according to your individual requirements.
Ingredients Approx. Volume
Beeswax 15g
Cocoa Butter 5g
Jojoba Oil 65ml
Honey 5g
Carrot-Infused Oil 5ml
Calendula-Infused Oil 5ml
Sandalwood Essential Oil 3 Drops
Orange Sweet Essential Oil 2 Drops
Make-up jars with lids 10 x 3g jars

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More about: Lip Care
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Deep Moisturising Cleansing Milk Recipe

 

Application:

  • Deep Moisturising Cleansing Milk

Equipment:

  • A means of heating your mixture.
  • A small pan (a milk pan is usually good).
  • Spoons.
  • Scales that can weigh down to 1 gram.
  • 1 bottle with lotion pump dispenser and a funnel to fill.

Instructions:

  • Add the polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, glyceryl caprylate, Vitamin E, macadamia butter and jojoba butter to the pan.
     
  • Heat gently to around 50°C while stirring to ensure the mixture is thoroughly combined.
     
  • Take off the heat and add in the macadamia oil, shea oil with mixing.
     
  • Once cooled to below 40°C add your choice of essential oils up to 2% (2 grams in 100g or approx. 40 drops) for use in the bath or 0.5-1% for facial use.
     
  • Mix well then decant into your pump pack.
Phase Ingredient % Function
A Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate 10 To turn the oils to milk once they hit the water.
  Glyceryl Caprylate 5 To help reduce the surface tension of the oils so that they become milky on hitting the water.
  Macadamia Butter 10 Deep moisturisation, refatting agent.
  Jojoba Butter 7 Skin barrier repair
B Macadamia Oil 60 Skin barrier repair
  She Oil 5 Light oil for slip - good for shaving.
  Vitamin E Natural 1 Antioxidant
  Essential Oil Blend 2 To set the mood.Take care with oil selection as you will be sitting in them in the bath!
  Total 100  

 

Directions For Use:

  • When completed this will look like a thickened oil and can be pumped out and put into the bath to turn it milky and to help condition the skin while bathing. If you don't have a bath the mixture can be used as a facial wash for dry skin as the polyglyceryl-3 palmitate will gently remove dirt from the face while the oils and butters will moisturise. Be sure to rinse off and pat dry before continuing your usual routine

Storage & Shelf Life

  • Shelf life testing hasn't been carried out but the mixture is expected to remain stable and usable if kept dry for between 3-6 months. No preservative is required as this is an oil-only mix and the oils used are relatively stable against oxidation. Keep away from bright light, moisture and extreme heat and cold as with all cosmetic formulations.

Caution:

  • Essential oils can irritate sensitive skin, you don't have to add them to this recipe and always perform a patch test on your blend before using the product on the body or face.
  • Glyceryl Caprylate can sting very sensitive skin. It is required in this recipe to help the formulation function but if you have a sensitivity to this ingredient or try your blend and it stings you can leave this out. We have reduced the level of Glyceryl Caprylate in this formula to 5% (from a recommended 10%) to reduce the likelihood of irritation.

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More about: Cleansers
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Summer Skin Detox Cleanser Recipe

 

If like us you enjoy getting creative with your personal care routine then this is for you.Powdered cleansers are great for making at home as they require very little in terms of specialized equipment, packaging or even ingredients. In fact there are so many options to choose you can just let your imagination run wild!

Our summer skin detox is the perfect way to ensure your skin is glowing with health and vitality throughout the festive season thanks to the high strength vitamin C and Green tea antioxidants but that's not all.

  • Australian Green Clay to help manage pimples and congestion.
  • Argan and Almond exofoliants to buff the skin and leave it glowing with health
  • Soya Amino acids for added moisture
  • Bath milk powder to soften the skin.

Your powdered skin cleanser can be turned into a light paste with water before massaging into the skin and rinsing off. Alternatively for those with extra-dry skin why not try mixing it with a cleansing oil such as Olive, Jojoba or Macadamia? Want a third option? Add a tablespoon of this highly active concentrate to a tablespoon of your regular cleanser for double the fun!

Ingredient % Function
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate* 15 This is the main cleansing agent. It helps to gently lift dirt from the skin.
Kaolin 40 Kaolin is great for drawing toxins and impurities from the skin
Australian Olive Green Clay 10 A great detoxifying clay that helps to reduce the appearance of acne and manage excess oil
Almond Meal Exfoliant 10 A soft and veltety exfoliant that gently removes dirt and grime without causing irritation
Argan Face Exfoliant 5 A slightly coarser powdered exfoliant that gives a gentle microdermabrasive action to revive and rejuvenate the complexion.
Soya Amino Acid 5 Soya is a great moisturising active that helps ensure that the skin doesn't dry out during the cleansing process.
Milk Bath Powder Unscented 4.4 Adding milk to your cleanser will help remove dry, dull skin cells gently leaving the skin silky smooth.
Vitamin C Powder 10 Vitamin C is a fantastic anti-oxidant and the perfect pick-me-up for tired, stressed skin
Green Tea Powder 0.5 Green tea is another great rejuvenating active that works well with vitamin C to give the complexion a much needed boost.
Mental Clarity Essential Oil Blend 0.1 A beautiful essential oil blend to soothe and cleanse the mind.
     
    *Be sure to grind Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate well before adding it to the blend. The use of a small coffee grinding machine is the perfect way to prepare small batches of the surfactant
Total 100  

 

Note:

  • Mixing Vessel: To make a small batch (<1Kg) you can mix in a zip lock bag or a emptied and cleaned out jam jar.
     
  • Take care not to breathe in any surfactant dust as it can be irritating. The Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate is your surfactant.
     
  • Wondering where the essential oil goes? It adsorbs onto the surface of the powdered ingredients rather than being absorbed into them. A good way of visualizing this is to think of an orange with the indentations.Imagine that the essential oil is attracted to those indentations and forms a bond with them. Gentle rubbing or mixing with water or oils releases the oils so that they can get to work!
     
  • Be sure to keep the blend dry other than your essential oil addition.
     

Instructions:

  1. Weigh out the Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate before either grinding it into a powder with a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinding machine. This should only take a minute or so as the pellets are quite soft.
     
  2. Weigh the other ingredients and add to your mixing vessel and mix thoroughly to form a homogenous powdered mix.
     
  3. Pack into your container and store in a cool, dry place ready to use!

Caution:

  • Powdered mixes can still be prone to microbial contamination and can also oxidise. The long term stability of this blend has not been investigated and as such if you want to make this commercially we recommend you investigate both physical and microbial stability.
  • Both microbial and physical stability can be improved by using clean raw materials, avoiding water and humidity and packing the product into a UV protective container. Also minimizing exposure to air is a good idea.

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More about: Cleansers
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Bubbly Bath Bomb Blitz Recipe

 

Application:

  • With school about to wrap up for another year and Christmas just a few weeks away now is the perfect time to plan a family craft session. Bath bombs make a great gift and are the perfect way to express your creativity and style. Don't have a bath? Don't worry! Mini bath bombs can be added to the water for a zesty and refreshing facial or you could even create an ice cube tray full of them to help encourage little people to wash their hands before helping you in the kitchen!

    So let's get cooking!

Equipment:

  • A mortar and pestle for grinding the dry powders.
  • Measuring scales or spoons.
  • A mixing bowl
  • Rigid mold in which to shape your bath bombs.
  • Alu foil or equivalent to help you compress your bath bomb mix without touching it.
  • A warm, dry environment to set the bombs (not all ovens produce dry heat, gas ovens are quite humid). Do not use the microwave!

Instructions:

  1. Measure out your dry ingredients into your mortar and pestle (including colour) and grind to a fine powder.The finer the consistency the better.
  2. Transfer the mixture to a slightly larger bowl and add the wet ingredients (surfactant, oil and fragrance.
  3. Once the mixture has formed a semi-tacky bread crumb consistency start spooning it into your moulds pressing it down with each scoop to ensure a really tight fit - the tighter the better.
  4. When your moulds are full place them into a warm, dry area to set. The time it takes to set and dry differs depending on the environment. It can be as short as 1 hour or as long as 24 hours. After 24 hours if it isn't setting the environment is probably too damp.
  5. Extract form the mould and pack ready to gift or use!

Troubleshooting:

  • Bath bombs are a good example of a simple concept that can very easily go wrong! It is not uncommon for the bath bombs to crack or fail to form. This may be because of too much moisture or not enough compression. Also moulds with too much give in them can also contribute to cracking and breakage. It may also take several goes to get the fragrance and colour levels right.
Ingredient % Purpose
Sodium Bicarbonate 35% It is the reaction between sodium bicarbonate and citric acid that causes the bath bomb to fizz. This reaction needs water to get it going so avoiding water until you use the bath bomb is essential!
Citric Acid 35% Citric acid plus sodium bicarbonate = carbon dioxide and water. This carbon dioxide is the gas that bubbles and fizzes. Don't worry, there isn't enough produced here to warm the planet.
Corn Starch 5% Corn starch helps ensure the bath bombs float in the bath. This helps us see and hear the fizzing better and makes more of an impact than a bomb without the corn starch.
Surfactant 100% active 10% It is important to use a surfactant that is 100% active. You could use a dry surfactant such as our Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate. That should be pre-ground in a coffee grinder then added. If you use a powdered surfactant you will need to use more oil to bind the bomb together. Otherwise use one of our polysorbates, the decaglyceryl monolaurate or the polyglyceryl-3-palmitate as the surfactant.
Vegetable Oil 4% This is really there to help bind the powders together. Any vegetable oil can be used to help achieve that.
Kaolin 10% The kaolin provides a surface for the aroma to cling and also makes the bath water feel soft on the skin. It is also gives a base for the colour agent to cling to and bulks up the bath bomb.
Perfume 0.5% You can choose any perfume for this in theory but be mindful of who will use the product and how. Some essential oils are not suited to use in a bath situation. If in doubt please ask!
Colour Agent (water-free) up to 0.5% Your colour agent could be an Australian clay, iron oxides, micas or other powdered colour. Again this is a guide only, you may need to use less colour. Colours can also be blended to get different shades. Food colourings are not appropriate here as they are generally water based. The water ingredients in the colour will start the bath bomb fizzing.
     
Total 100%  

 

Adult-Only Bath Bombs!

Mastered the simple version? Now why not try adding some exotic actives to your bathing mix. You could add any number of powdered actives including:

Aloe Oil - Soothing and moisturizing. Great for skin repair.

Honey Powder - A great moisturizing active for sensitive, extra dry skin.

Dragons Blood Extract - Anti-inflammatory active that would be a perfect addition to an after sports muscle relaxing and repair bath.

Bath Milk - Gentle AHA blend that softens the skin bringing back a youthful glow.

Hyaluronic Acid - How about some pure indulgence! Add some hyaluronic acid powder for a super hydrating body treatment!

Colloidal Oatmeal - Oatmeal is great for very dry and itchy skin.

Caution:

  • Powdered mixes can still be prone to microbial contamination and can also oxidise. The long term stability of this blend has not been investigated and as such if you want to make this commercially we recommend you investigate both physical and microbial stability.
  • Both microbial and physical stability can be improved by using clean raw materials, avoiding water and humidity and packing the product into a UV protective container. Also minimizing exposure to air is a good idea.
  • It is a good idea to test our your bath bomb mix before retailing or gifting to ensure that your choice of colour doesn't stain the bath or sink.

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More about: Bath Recipes, Bubble Bath
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Spring Room Mist Recipe

 

Application:

  • Spring is in the air and it is the perfect time to re energise and cleanse your environment . Whether it be for home or office this uplifting blend is sure to put a spring in your step.

Equipment:

  • Disposable Pipettes
  • 250ml Plastic bottle of your choice
  • 24mm Atomiser top

Instructions:

  1. Fill three quarters of de mineralised water into spray bottle, so you can shake the bottle well between uses.
  2. Add the essential oils.All essential oils can very in strength.
  3. Shake the bottle prior to each use, and let it sit for about a day before making a conclusion that the aroma is too weak; the aroma can change after the air freshener has had time to sit.
  4. Spray lightly in the room and enjoy!
Ingredients Approx. Volume
Sweet Lime Cold Pressed Oil 10 drops
Bergamot Calabrian Essential Oil 6 drops
Mandarin Cold Pressed Australian Essentail Oil 6 drops
Ylang Ylang 1st Essential Oil 3 drops
De Mineralised Water 200ml

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More about: Household Recipes
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Soothing Moisturiser for Dry and Damaged Skin Recipe

 

Application:

  • This light-weight cream is perfect for day-repair of dry, rough skin. The Snail Secretion extract is soothing and has a regenerative effect on the complexion.

Instructions:

  1. Measure all ingredients in phase I into a heat-proof container and heat until the emulsifying wax has melted (approx 75C°). Take care not to let the mixture boil.
  2. Remove the mixture from the heat and stir vigorously with a bar mix or equivalent taking care not to aerate the mix.
  3. When the mixture has cooled to 45°C or less add ingredients in phase II with gentle mixing.
  4. Pack into suitable container. This doesn't have to be airless.

Storage:

  • For immediate use. Store in a cool environment away from direct sunlight & use within a few weeks. If extended storage is required, please ensure adequate levels of preservatives, antioxidants or other additives are used according to your individual requirements.
Phase Ingredient % Function
I Water 73.500 Main Carrier
  Acacia and Xanthan gum 1.500 Thickener and gives the serum staying-power on the skin.
  Glycerin 3.000 Humectant to stop cream from drying out and also as a moisturising active
  Caprylic Capric Triglyceride 8.000 Light weight emollient for skin feel
  Rice Bran Oil 6.000 Light weight, low allergy oil for moisturisation without clogging
  Vegetable Emulsifying Wax 4.000 Emulsifier
       
II Snail Secretion Extract 3.000 Active for soothing and moisturising skin
  Plantaserv E 1.000 Preservative to prevent microbial growth
TOTAL   100.00  

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Silky Touch Soothing Serum Recipe

 

Application:

  • Use under night cream to help sooth sun and environmental damage.

Instructions:

  1. Warm water to 70C° and add the thickeners and glycerin while stiring to form a gel.
  2. Once a smooth gel base is formed and the mixture has reached a temperature of aroud 45C° add phase II ingredients with gentle mixing.
  3. Pack in air-tight serum bottle.

Directions For Use:

  • Use under night cream to help sooth sun and environmental damage.

Storage:

  • For immediate use. Store in a cool environment away from direct sunlight & use within a few weeks. If extended storage is required, please ensure adequate levels of preservatives, antioxidants or other additives are used according to your individual requirements.
Phase Ingredient % Function
I Water 90.200 Main Carrier
  Acacia and Xanthan gum 1.300 Thickener and gives the serum staying-power on the skin.
  Guar gum 0.500 Thickener and flow agent
  Glycerin 3.000 Humectant to trap water and moisturise the skin
       
II Ginseng Liquid Extract 1.000 Active extract to boost skin energy
  Snail Secretion Extract 3.000 Active for soothing and moisturising skin
  Plantaserv E 1.000 Preservative to prevent microbial growth
Total   100.00  

 

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More about: Skin Serum
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Blooming Bath Oil Recipe

 

Application:

  • Blooming bath oils are favourites of ours as they turn milky when added to water where they deliver a rich and soothing moisture layer to dry skin. They can be quite simple to make - here is a quick recipe to get you started .

Instructions:

  • All you have to do is weigh, gently mix then enjoy! As there is no water in this mix, no preservative is required.The polysorbate 85 helps bring the oils and water (in your bath) together to give the milky finish. Without this the oils will just float on top of the bath and not stick so well to the skin.This will also make the bath very hard to clean once you have finished!

Directions For Use:

  • For immediate use. Store in a cool environment away from direct sunlight & use within a few weeks. If extended storage is required, please ensure adequate levels of preservatives, antioxidants or other additives are used according to your individual requirements.
Ingredients Volume
Flaxseed Oil 50 g
Jojoba Oil 18 g
Avocado Oil 10 g
Polysorbate 85 20 g
Vitamin E Natural 1 g
Essential oils of your choice 0.7 g
Alpha Bisabolol
This is a fantastic anti-irritant and soothing agent.
0.3 g

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More about: Bath Recipes
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Simple Mix-and-Use Blend Mask Recipe

 

Application:

  • Simple Mix-and-Use Blend Mask

Instructions:

  • Dry blend your powdered ingredients into a small bowl then when combined mix into a paste using your macadamia nut oil

Directions For Use:

  • Apply to the face, neck or hands, leave for 10 minutes then rinse
Phase Ingredients Approx.Volume
Powdered Phase A Australian Reef Red Clay 5g
  Australian Washed Blue Clay 20g
  Kaolin 15g
  Chamomile Powder 20g
Oil Phase B    
  Macadamia Oil 40g
  Total 100ml

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