Natural Silicone Alternative - Isoamyl Laurate
INCI: Isoamyl Laurate
Isoamyl Laurate is a light-weight oily ester that absorbs quickly into the skin leaving a dry, silicone-like feeling. It has a molecular weight of 270 which is about 3.5 times lighter than fractionated coconut oil.
This ingredient is classified as an ester rather than oil and as such can be formulated in oil-free cosmetics. It has a similar chemistry to Oleyl Oleate but at half themolecular weight, this is is well suited to products requiring a light after feel which absorbs quickly.
Because of where the oxygen molecules are located on the structure this ester is polar, most oils are not. Polar oils are well suited to wetting out and dispersing pigments and minerals so that they give the best colour intensity and depth thus making this ingredient perfect for colour cosmetics, especially those that would benefit from a dry or matt finish.
Not only can this ingredient disperse pigments but it can also remove them so this ingredient can be used at a higher dose in make-up remover formulations – like-dissolves-like.
In addition to that because of the polarity of this ingredient it also mixes in readily with alcohol making this a suitable light emollient to add to hand sanitisers for a soft, silky after-feel.
Ingredients based on silicone are a lot more bendable and flexible than carbon chemistry and as such can feel much lighter than they actually are (a little goes a long way). For a natural ingredient to be classed as 'silicone like' it should give a light weight feel, untypical of vegetable oils (which are naturally heavy). While this ingredients lacks the flexibility of a silicone, its lightness and high degree of spreadability means it can be a reasonable replacement for silicone in natural formulations.
Recommended Dose: 1-20%
Solubility: Oil and Ethanol.
Viscosity: Low (light)
Origin: Natural (Palm / mixed vegetable).
Try this for a natural alternative (but not direct-replacement for ): Isopropyl Myristate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate. It is also lighter and much faster spreading than MCT Oil/ Fractionated Coconut Oil/ Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.
Function: Solubiliser for actives, light-weight emollient for hair care, slip agent for shaving product, make-up remover active, light-touch agent for emulsions.
New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. does not supply food grade raw materials and therefore cannot waive GST.
Prior to use: Customers should always refer to the Material Safety Data Sheet / Specification Sheet OR the ingredients label as affixed to each product which are current at the time of supply of the product.
The information provided is for educational purposes only. Individuals receiving this information must exercise their independent judgment in determining its appropriateness for a particular purpose or use.As the ordinary or otherwise use(s) of products is outside the control of New Directions Australia Pty Ltd., no representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made as to the effect(s) of such use(s), (including damage or injury), or the results obtained. New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. expressly disclaims responsibility as to the ordinary or otherwise use(s). Furthermore, nothing contained herein should be considered as a recommendation by New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. as to the fitness for any use. The liability of New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. is limited to the value of the goods and does not include any consequential losses.