Activity: 70% as supplied.
Initial pH: 0.5
Use Levels: 1-30% (but more typically 5-20%) as supplied and at pH 3.5-4
Application Work: This ingredient can be added into wash-off and leave-on products. If adding to a cream base take care that the acid doesn't shock the emulsion / cream and collapse it. In some cases it is best to adjust the pH of the glycolic before adding it to the emulsion base. This can be done with dilute sodium hydroxide solution. If using a gel thickener it is best to add the glycolic to the water first and then adjust the pH before thickening the mixture, this is because pH adjustment liberates bubbles and these may be impossible to remove once the gel has hydrated.
Incompatibilities: Not compatible with carbomer type thickeners or other acrylates. Not suitable for use with acacia/ xanthan blend (the acacia gum reacts with it to form a sticky gum). We also recommend stability testing for all products containing AHA's to ensure they remain safe, stable and active during their shelf life.
Acid Strength: Glycolic acid is the strongest of the cosmetically used acids and while this still puts it in a completely different class industrial style acids it still has potential to cause damage if over used. The acid should NEVER be placed on the skin as-supplied as the pH is low enough to burn the skin and we recommend avoiding the eye area at all times as this is an eye irritant.
Acid strength with regards to a cosmetic product has two factors. Firstly there is the concentration added (how much) and secondly there is the amount of that acid that is in its active form (how active). An acid becomes more powerful and active as the pH drops so as supplied this product is almost 100% in its acidic form. We recommend adjusting the pH of the glycolic to the acids pKa or balance point where it is 50% acid and 50% salt. That point is at pH 3.83. Above this pH the acid will have less power (from 3.84-4.3) and below this pH the acid will be more powerful <3.83.
Cosmetic products should always be safe to use and as such it is not legally permitted by the TGA to sell an AHA product containing lactic and/or glycolic at a pH of less than 3.5
The maximum amount of glycolic allowed in a cosmetic preparation is 30% with most brands using between 5-20%
SAFE WORKING: Eye protection should be worn when using this material as it is an eye irritant. If the eyes are splashed they should be rinsed with plenty of water to dilute the impact of the acid. Avoid breathing in the vapours as they can also be irritating to mucous membranes, we do advise using this in a well ventilated space. The material is also corrosive so please avoid direct contact with the skin and again, if splashed, rinse well with water.
Ingredient Origin: Glycolic Acid is a synthetic AHA. It is manufactured via the saponification of chloroacetic acid. Chloroacetic acid can be made via two main routes, firstly by reacting acetic acid (vinegar) with chlorine and alternatively by hydrolysing trichloroethylene.
New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. does not supply food grade raw materials and therefore cannot waive GST.
Prior to use: Customers should always refer to the Material Safety Data Sheet / Specification Sheet OR the ingredients label as affixed to each product which are current at the time of supply of the product.
The information provided is for educational purposes only. Individuals receiving this information must exercise their independent judgment in determining its appropriateness for a particular purpose or use.As the ordinary or otherwise use(s) of products is outside the control of New Directions Australia Pty Ltd., no representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made as to the effect(s) of such use(s), (including damage or injury), or the results obtained. New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. expressly disclaims responsibility as to the ordinary or otherwise use(s). Furthermore, nothing contained herein should be considered as a recommendation by New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. as to the fitness for any use. The liability of New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. is limited to the value of the goods and does not include any consequential losses.