GMO and the Cosmetics Industry

It's not that bad but it is time to get down to business and establish some facts, so what are we waiting for.....

What's a GMO anyway?

Genetically Modified Organisms are living species that have had their DNA engineered (or designed) artificially in order to make them stronger, bigger, longer-lasting or hardier than their natural born brothers and sisters. This super DNA is often (but not always) sourced from unrelated species and this is where the term Frankenstein foods (or to give them their proper term transgenic organisms) comes in.

And how long has it been around?

Genetic engineering like this has only been available since the 1970's although it wasn't until the mid 1980's that momentum was built up and trials started for the consumer market. Some of the first crops to be genetically modified were tomatoes and rice followed by Canola oil, Soya Bean and Cotton. These crops were generally designed to either be tolerant to herbicide or insect resistant and the idea behind it was to boost yields by increasing productivity and turning farming into a cash cow commodity.

So where are these crops being grown?

Some of the largest adopters of GM technology on a US $ income basis are the USA, Argentina and China with the total market valued at US $5.5 billion by 2005 consuming 87.2 million hectares of land space. This translates into 29% of commercialised crops and that's a big and growing minority. Another figure of interest is the breakdown of GM to traditional crop on a one-to-one basis, these are: Soy beans 59%, maize 13%, cotton 27% and Canoga 18%. This means that over half of the soy farmed and almost one third of all cotton is genetically modified.

So is any of that used in the cosmetics industry?

The cosmetics industry certainly does make use of these feed stocks in a variety of ways but practically all cosmetic specific stocks are in line with consumer preferences and are GM free. Where problems may occur is when base oils such as cotton seed, soy or canola are bought from traders offering consolidated stock from a variety of farms. GM crops are traced, chemically identifiable and usually sold with a certificates of origin and batch numbers. Cheaper oils, especially those not destined for food use may not be sold with this information making it difficult for the end user to guarantee the oils origin.

Some examples of cosmetic specific soy ingredients include anti-ageing actives based on soy isoflavones. These are sought after as isoflavones contain a high percentage of genistein- a super anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory with skin rejuvenating-powers. Then there is soy lecithin, a natural emulsifier able to bind water into an oily base - perfect for colour cosmetics and ointment bases. The protein which can be used as a skin and hair conditioner and the oil which is used as a carrier and moisturising base.

Cotton has been blended with sugar based surfactants to make a range of super-mild and moisturising emollients. Maize in starch form is used to absorb sweat and oil, thicken products and provide slip to make-up while the oil is a prized emollient which has benefits for itchy and dry skin. Finally the rich and fatty Canola oil makes a great soap base, natural emollient and backbone for 'green' surfactants. It's all going on but in the cosmetics industry it's all natural!

So are GM products bad for us and the environment?

Globally many governments are opposed to the growing of GM crops in their backyard for a number of reasons. Once these crops are planted it is very difficult to isolate them from the rest of the world as the birds, bees and furry friends generally come and go as they please, spreading seeds and un-pure genetics far and wide. When it comes to food stocks, given the choice many people prefer not to buy or consume GM food and when the market is sceptical the financial will tends to dry up!

But they are still being grown.

It's hard to argue with the fact that GM crops are hardier, larger and more productive than non GM Crops, a fact that is somewhat political when viewed against the ever-exploding global population graph on a planet that is loosing its top soil and natural fertility with every blow of the wind. Many crops have been designed to be more tolerant to pests and diseases, reducing the need for pesticides (which has economic and environmental benefits) but they do tend to upset the natural balance of an ecosystem and are practically always planted as a mega hectare mono-culture or factory farm which again has environmental implications. There is no doubt that the implications of a GM market are complex, multi-faceted and somewhat political but for now, at least in the cosmetics industry, it's not GM time.

What does New Directions do to check sources?

New Directions keeps a close eye on the global oil market and only buys from reputable sources who can provide the legal paperwork involved to prove the crops purity. For now, the market for non-GM is still quite large and competitive which enables us to source high quality, natural oils and actives.

So will my shampoo contain GM ingredients?

Not if you buy it from New Directions and that's a fact!

Amanda Foxon-Hill

17 January 2011

References:

Facts and figures on the GM market.
Agrifood Awareness
Soy in cosmetics
Soy Round Table
Maize in the cosmetics industry