pH is one of the technical terms you come across frequently in the cosmetic industry. A simple way to think about it is to read it as an indication of how acidic or alkaline your product is, typically on a scale of 1-15. In a cosmetic sense, both ends of the spectrum are classified as being harsh and potentially damaging to skin and as such, cosmetic formulators work to avoid creating products that sit at these extremes.
In technical terms pH is a measure of the number of hydrogen ions in an aqueous solution so, for a product to have a measurable pH there has to be water around for the hydrogen ions to swim around in.
An experiment investigating what happens inside a cream when you change the emulsifier.
Your choice of emulsifier impacts much more than just how stable your cream will be. The right emulsification strategy will improve your product efficacy - how well it does what you say it will do. The emulsifier also plays an important role in the products rheology (how it flows), how it looks and feels and how it ages over time.
Back in 2017 a range of articles about foaming soap were published on the internet declared it to be somewhat of a dud. A closer look revealed an intriguing truth, that these harsh, product-killing opinions were all emanating from one 10 participant pilot study. As pilot studies about soap don't usually get this much attention we decided to take a closer look in a bid to find out what was really going on back then and establish if it's true, that foaming soap is all fluff and bubbles...
For many of us, the unfolding of the Covid 19 pandemic is confusing, scary even. The things that we used to take for granted about the way modern life operates are rapidly changing and falling out of reach. In fact, things are changing so quickly and dramatically that many of us feel dazed, overwhelmed and deeply confused. By the time you read this, this pandemic may be all over, then again, maybe it will only just be getting started...
Cosmetic brands have been selling themselves as 'paraben free 'or 'sulphate free' for years now but that may be about to stop in EU based markets in a move that for once, sees (un) common sense prevail.
Over the last thirty years the cosmetic industry has turned its attention more and more to the natural world for its ingredients, inspiration and innovation. Indeed, we are now at a time where our cosmetics and the climate cannot be separated from each other. The climate influences the production of our cosmetics, our cosmetics protect us from the effects of the climate. As such, it makes sense for us to take a closer look at how this relationship is developing, how the climate is changing our cosmetics.
New Directions have been sourcing and supplying ingredients for well over twenty years and what started with an essential oil has developed into a thriving multi-dimensional hub of ingredient activity. But what does it take to keep all of these ingredients on the shelf and how do we choose what to purchase? Here's a look at the intricacies involved in maintaining the range at New Directions and where our ingredients come from!
In cosmetic science, as in all aspects of life, it is important to be careful of the stories you tell in case they come back and bite you. The 'chemical' free preservative story is one such case but, as it is a story that many people want to tell (and I can understand why) it is one we should explore pro-actively, so that we might write our own product narrative on fact rather than fiction. With that in mind, this is a story about preserving your product with Radishes and Coconuts.
The words 'natural' and 'cosmetics' just go together don't they? As a manufacturer that operates in the Essential and Vegetable Oils market it is not surprising that the vast majority of our customers come to us with very clear ideas about what they want IN their formulations, having read up on the benefits of all manor of lovely things - Argan Oil, Sandalwood Powder, Kakadu Plumb or Virgin Coconut oil. Clients are also very good at knowing what they want OUT of their formula - parabens, SLS/ SLES, Mineral Oil, Silicones, Fragrances and sometimes more. The only problem is that many clients don't fully understand WHY any of these ingredients are on the must avoid list and have little understanding of the full implications of these 'easy-to-say-but-harder-to-achieve' positions. The motivation behind the vast majority of clients is safety which begs the question "What do we mean by 'safe'?"
You know that old saying 'the devil is in the detaiel'; well I've been wondering what that means and more specifically how that saying might relate to the success of a cosmetic brand. Despite well over twenty years of cosmetic industry experience spanning manufacturing, testing, material supply and management, brand development and customer service you will not find any of the staff here at New Directions singing out about how easy it is to become the next Body Shop or L'Oreal. That said, people do come through the NDA doors, month after month, year after year fired up and willing to give it a go, some of them succeeding in the most delightful ways. So why is that and more importantly how can we help YOU become one of the success stories?