Here are the molecular diagrams so you can see the structure of the two chemicals:
So what do we know of the antioxidant properties of Ubiquinone?
I found this table in an article I was reading about the antioxidant efficacy of the COQ10 (Idebenone: A new antioxidant. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Vol 4 (1) - Jan 1, 2005). As you can see from this, in this round of tests the Ubiquinone scores 55 out of 100, Idebenone 95 and Tocopherol (Natural Vitamin E) scores 80. 55 out of 100 doesn’t look great but numbers can be deceptive in these things - as you can see Ubiquinone scores about the same as Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Alpha Lipoic Acid, another popular Antioxidant in cosmetics comes in last with 41. When it comes to dosing your product up with antioxidants I like to think of it like this. Say you want to give your house a good clean, protect it from dirt and grime, you would be best sourcing a variety of implements - duster, vacuum cleaner, broom, mop etc. - rather than just getting in 4 x vacuum cleaners. Antioxidants are the same; they work to keep your product protected from the ravages of free radical pollution. Free radicals come in different shapes, sizes and amounts and so it makes sense to try to tackle them in a variety of ways. If you are lucky your variety of tools will work synergistically creating a combination that is better than the sum of its parts. It is worth trying for that. So, when I look at the table above that’s what I see, a set of antioxidants with different levels of ability but also different chemistries, chemistries that might prove better suited to something outside of this test criteria. After all, Idebenone might perform the best here on paper but what use is that when some people react to it?
So how much Ubiquinone should you use to access its antioxidant benefits?
The amount most commonly used is 0.01-0.5% - quite a wide range but again that does reflect the fact that each formula will have a different level of need for an antioxidant both as product protection (to prevent the formula from going rancid) and in terms of claim substantiation (to protect the skin from free radicals).
The ingredient is oil soluble butpoorly so and often needs filtering before adding to a base as it won’t fully dissolve into most oils. I’ve found success in dissolving it into vegetable squalane (Vegelan) and that solvent has the added benefit of being skin-like and something of a skin penetration enhancer because of its ability to spread the ingredient out evenly.
Here at New Directions we also have a water-soluble extract form made possible by coating the COQ10 in a water soluble maltodextrin cover. This glycerin based extract can be used in a formula at between 10-20%.
Anything else to keep in mind when using CO Q10?
Well it is expensive when compared to Vitamin E (somewhere in the region of 8-10 times more) so you would tend to using less of this than your tocopherol. Also the oil form is a bright yellow in colour and that colour will run through into your base product, especially if you are using 0.5% of this active. Otherwise it is pretty much odourless which makes it quite easy to add into most formulations and because the addition rate is low it can also be dispersed through a gel (water-based) serum if needs be.
And one last thing, what is Kinetin? It also appears in that antioxidant test result table.
That is a plant hormone that stimulates growth. Apparently it is also used in skin care along with vitamin A (Retinol) to help fight ageing.
So there you go. Ubiquinone, CO Q10 is a good antioxidant for skincare and is probably worth adding to your regular round up of antioxidant hero’s, especially in those hard-to-stabilise products!
Coenzyme Q10 Antioxidant Serum Recipe |
Purpose: Help to neutralise the stress of the day with this antioxidant enriched oil blend. |
Phase | Ingredient | % | Function |
1 | Shea Oil | 60.200 | A beautifully light oil with high stability and great anti-inflammatory and barrier repair properties. |
Coenzyme Q10 | 0.300 | Powerful antioxidant that works in synergy with Vitamin E for protection from free-radical damage | |
Vegelan | 3.00 | This ingredient helps to boost the solubility of the Coenzyme Q10 making it more readily available to the skin. | |
Jojoba Virgin Australian Oil | 20.000 | This liquid wax leaves the skin feeling moisturised and protected from environmental damage. | |
2 | Black Seed Oil | 5.000 | Rich source of thymol which is a powerful antimicrobial. Also contains Thymoquinone which has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This is a free radical scavenger |
Seabuckthorn CO2 Oil | 0.500 | Anti-inflammatory oil rich in Omega fatty acids which also help to maintain the skins barrier function | |
Rosehip (Rosa Canina) Oil | 10.000 | Rosehip is naturally rich in Carotenoids - natures Vitamin A. This oil helps with skin repair and conditioning. | |
Vitamin E Natural | 1.000 | The most popular and potent antioxidant we have for daily skincare. Vitamin E helps reduce skin damage from oxidation while helping maintain barrier function. | |
TOTAL | 100 |
Instructions:
Directions for use:
Storage:
Precautions:
General: If you are pregnant, breast feeding, or suffering from a health disorder, please consult your aroma therapist or health care professional before using essential oils topically.
Disclaimer:
As the ordinary or otherwise use(s) of products is outside the control of New Directions Pty Ltd., no representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made as to the effect(s) of such use(s), (including damage or injury), or the results obtained. New Directions Pty Ltd expressly disclaims responsibility as to the ordinary or otherwise use(s). Furthermore, nothing contained herein should be considered as a recommendation by New Directions Pty Ltd as to the fitness for any use. The liability of New Directions Pty Ltd is limited to the value of the goods and does not include any consequential losses.
Amanda Foxon-Hill
9 March 2017