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AHA and BHA Moisturising Lotion Formula
Published on by New Directions
AHA and BHA Moisturising Lotion Formula
Suitable Packaging: Bottle, Airless Pump.
Formula Number: NDFL0012016
Application:
- AHA/BHA Lotion with Fruit Acids
Note:
- New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.
| Phase | %W/W | Raw Material | Function |
| A | 62.4 | Deionised Water | Solvent / diluent |
| 0.1 | Disodium EDTA | Chelating agent to help preservative work better | |
| 3 | Glycerin | Humectant | |
| 0.25 | Xanthan Gum | Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser | |
| Heat phase A to 70-75°C. Mix until clear and until the xanthan gum is fully hydrated | |||
| B | 6 | Fractionated Coconut Oil | Emollient |
| 2 | Macadamia Nut Oil | Emollient | |
| 2 | Beeswax | Emollient | |
| 2.5 | Shea Butter | Emollient | |
| 1.3 | Glyceryl Stearate Citrate | Emulsifier Secondary | |
| 2.2 | Emulsifying wax vegetable (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) | Emulsifier Primary | |
| 0.25 | Allantoin | Soothing, anti-irritant | |
| 1.5 | Salicylic Acid | BHA | |
| Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below. | |||
| C | 1 | Plantaserv P (Phenoxyethanol,Caprylyl Glycol) | Preservative |
| 15 | AHA Fruit Acids | Active AHA | |
| 0.25 | Natural Vitamin E | Antioxidant for product and skin protection. | |
| 0.25 | Perfume of choice | Aroma | |
| Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream | |||
| D | qs | Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to 3.8-4.5 | AHA treatments work best at pH less than 4 but if the pH is too low the product will be very irritating. We suggest a pH of 4-4.5 for retail products or 3.8-4.2 for salon products. For home use, use the higher pH. |
| Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. Adjust as necessary to pH 3.8-4.5 using citric acid to bring the pH down or Sodium Hydroxide to increase the pH. | |||
| TOTAL | 100 | ||
More about:
Lotions, New Directions Starting Point Formula