Essential Oils & Perfumes Part II - How Essential Oils Work On The Body

Aromatic Chemical Groups and Their Actions

How Essential Oils Work on the Body

The ways in which essential oil molecules enter the body and have an effect are: by inhalation, by trans-dermal absorption and by ingestion. Essential oils increase the blood supply to the tissues, which helps the proliferation of cells and regeneration, increasing oxygenation and lymphatic flow. By increasing the micro-circulation in the skin and by strengthening the capillaries essential oils, such as cypress, lemon, rose and geranium, are useful for the treatment of spider veins and varicose veins. Essential oils are very complex and contain many trace compounds - very small components, some of which may not even have been analysed scientifically. It is the combination of all its ingredients that make an essential oil what it is. Extracting one component generally won't work effectively without the other trace elements to provide balance. Also the better the quality of the essential oil, the more effective it will be in treatment.

Essential oils work well in cosmetics and beauty treatments as anti-ageing agents because their properties work to stimulate skin cells into reproducing at a faster rate, and by protecting the body against free radicals (believed by many scientists to be the greatest cause of ageing). Skin that has been treated with essential oils becomes stronger, healthier and more even in appearance.

The improved circulation, which aids oxygenation, increases the rate at which nutrients are fed into the dermis. The production of the skin's sebum is influenced by hormones. Certain essential oils balance the rate which sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands, thereby encouraging healthy skin. As certain essential oils may influence the hormonal level it makes sense to include these as a treatment when dealing with skin problems that are caused by hormonal imbalances.

Others are anti-inflammatory and calm sensitive and damaged skin. Some such as fennel contain phyto-hormones which create equilibrium within our endocrine system and can be used in the management of menopausal symptoms such as hot flushes.

All essential oils are anti-bacterial in nature, some more than others. Oregano, for example, is twenty-six times more powerful as an antiseptic than phenol, which is the active ingredient in many commercial cleaning products. It has been shown that their antiseptic properties cause damage to a biological membrane due to their lipophilic properties (their solubility in the phospholipid bi-layer of cell membranes). According to Knobloch, the oxygen intake was completely inhibited by functional groups such as phenols (see Oregano above). Yet in correct dosages and applications they are completely safe when used on the human body. They are probiotic or 'for life' as opposed to antibiotics which are 'against' life.

Thermal Imaging showing neck & shoulder area before and then 3 minutes after application of essential oil product.

Some such as lemongrass contain anti-viral properties. Dr. Penoel suggested a combination of essential oils applied topically. The essential oils alter the pH and the electrical resistance of the terrain in a way which is unfavourable to the viral organism.

A combination of essential oils, well known to aromatherapists, is a combination of Tea Tree Oil, Pine Oil and Eucalyptus Oil with Lavender and Lemon Oils, has just been "discovered" by pharmaceutical chemists as a marvelous antiseptic, even effective against Golden Staph. a common infection in hospitals.

How Essential Oils Effect Mood

Using essential oils topically allows their aroma to also be inhaled to a certain degree during a treatment as they are volatile - that is, they evaporate and move through the air. The nasal passages are an area of the body where the blood vessels are closest to the skin, allowing rapid absorption of the essential oil to its effective site, including the brain.

The Salon, Spa or Clinic can affect the mood of clients by the use of essential oil atomizers (oil burners, incense sticks, electronic atomizers, etc.) to fill the air with a scent that can excite, calm, attract or any other mood. Clients often find that their overall well-being benefits as well as their looks.

Today, aromatherapy is used in beauty and aesthetic treatments for relaxation, stress-relief, rejuvenation and revitalisation and treating skin conditions. Essential oils are found as ingredients in many beauty products, including face creams and lotions, face scrubs, masks, and toners, body lotions of all kinds, slimming treatments, sun tanning and protection products, and pedicure and manicure products.

How to Use Essential Oils, Extracts and Natural Products?

Inhalation

Oil Burners, Atomised Sprays, Candles and Incense Sticks are the most common methods.

Topical

Massage Creams or Oils are an excellent method as they tend to have considerable time on the skin and not be washed off, two factors which will increase the effectiveness of any active component through the skin.

Firstly the Cream or Oil is formed and the essential oils or extracts carefully blended in once the process has cooled to below 35oC. Higher temperatures than this may cause the degradation of sensitive components necessary for the complete action. The general usage levels are 7 to 25 drops in 25ml of oil or cream.

It is possible to create your own aromatherapy creams, oils or other products, in your clinic, salon or spa as you can buy small quantities of ready made creams or oils, as well as the essential oils or extracts, from companies such as mine (New Directions Australia) and you can blend these yourself.

Other means have also been employed such as via hair care or even the moisturizers, day creams, night creams, etc. used in daily skin care.

The Importance of the Base or Carrier Oil

There is a simple distinction between carrier oils and base oils. Carrier oils are chosen to carry the therapeutic essential oil molecules to where they are needed. They are not chosen for their beneficial properties. Base oils are chosen because they contain moisturising and emollient properties that have the ability to supply the skin with essential fatty acids and vitamins that have specific healing properties. This is especially important when the essential oils used are chosen for their anti-ageing properties such as in skin care products.

Typical Carrier Oils are;

Apricot Oil, Canola Oil, Castor Oil, Coconut Oil, Corn Oil, Cottonseed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Olive Oil, Palm Oil, Peach Oil, Safflower Oil, Sesame Oil, Soya Bean Oil, Sunflower Oil, plus the "non-vegetable" oils MCT and Paraffin or Mineral Oil.

For those that may have heard my lecture last June on the Gold Coast I gave the description of treatments to Olive Oil vs Paraffin or Mineral Oil and asked which was more "natural". I will include this again, in the Appendix, for those who have not seen it.

Typical Base Oils are;

There are many different oils available but particularly good blends combines oils of Sweet Almond, Wheatgerm and Macadamia. or Avocado, Blackcurrant, Grapeseed and Evening Primrose. I have mentioned many times, the vitamins contained in natural extracts and oils as benefits to skin. Their confirmed actions are listed in Appendix 2, which unfortunately due to time constraints I cannot go into details here.

12 October 2007