The sun's burning and ageing rays.
Our bodies have evolved to live on this planet with this sun and that needs to be respected when we formulate. The only fly in our ointment so-to-speak is the fact that us humans have been travelling the globe for many years and living in places that aren't necessarily best for our particular skin type and colouring.

We are all aware of the dangers of too much sun but on a day-to-day basis and while we may not be burning, it may still become stressed either mechanically through our trying to avoid the sun in our eyes or chemically. This chemical stress has nothing to do with the product you slap on; it is a natural reaction that the body has when it is getting close to its maximum sunlight dose for the day. Our bodies slow down our immune system under these circumstances so that we don't over-react and end up blown up and itchy every time we get slight sunburn. This lowered immunity is the reason why a day at the beach can lead to cold sores and blemishes in prone individuals.All of these minor stresses prematurely age us and leave us heading to the cosmetic counter for a fix-all.

With sun sense being so important to skin health it is no wonder that brands are clamouring to boost their products sun protection in any way possible and that the public are lapping them up. But the big question is what the best way to do this naturally is?

The EU lists 157 ingredients under the category of UV Absorber but the vast majority of these would not pass muster for an organic or natural cosmetic brand as they tend to be quite sophisticated petroleum-derived chemicals not all of which are readily broken down in the environment. To succeed in the organic/ natural world we have either to go back to nature and see how the plants do it or put on some physical protection.

Here are some of the ones that I found most interesting:

Sun Protection Actives Derived From Nature *

1. Butters and waxes–Shea Butter has a natural SPF of around four due to its waxy nature and ability to stick-to and form a film on the skin. These days there are many exotic waxes to try which all help keep your product on the skin and boost its sun protection. Some interesting examples are Olive Butter, Macadamia, Cocoa butter and soya wax.
    
2. Essential Fatty Acids – Wheat and Oat oils, Raspberry Seed Oil all fit under this category. Essential Fatty Acids help to maintain the skins barrier function which makes it stronger and better able to cope with the rigors of a day in the sun.
    
3. Mineral Blockers – We all remember the days when cricketers would stride out with their whitened noses and foreheads. Well, thanks to technological developments zinc no longer has to look like that. The key to a good zinc based sunscreen is having a small and evenly ground particle size suspended in a carrier with good spreading characteristics. Our Zinc in Caprylic Capric triglyceride enables the formulation of SPF 30 plus products that leave no white mark. Quick, easy and convenient!
    
4. Peptides. Some of the newest and most exciting ways to help boost the skins tolerance to the sun is by up-regulating the body's own defence system. Natural and synthetic peptides have been shown to be able to target the cells in the skin that boost barrier function. The result of this is that the skin becomes better armed to help its self when it gets out into the sun. The main down side of this technology is the cost and as such it is mostly seen in high end cosmaceutical formulations.
    
5. Polyphenol Antioxidants – We hear the word 'antioxidants'a lot in skin care but don't often stop to understand what it means. Antioxidants act a bit like natures broom, sweeping up and squashing little bundles of energy that can go on to damage either the skin or the rest of the product. Plants use antioxidants to help them survive the rigors of life out-doors and these benefits also translate into skincare. While many vitamins also have antioxidant power here we are focusing on polyphenols which are most widely found in extracts such as coffee seed, Green Tea, Blackberries, Strawberries, Olive, Broccoli , Argan Oil and Red Wine (Grapes).
    
6. Vitamins – Vitamins play a major role in keeping our skin healthy and there is plenty of evidence that applying them topically does provide results. Nature provides us with a wide range of vitamin-rich oils from which to choose from. Some of the most popular used in natural sun protection/ anti-ageing are Sea Buckthorn (rich in Vitamin C), Raspberry Seed Oil (Vitamin E and A), Kakadu Plumb Extract (Vitamin C), Pomegranate Oil (Vitamin C and B) and Rosehip (Vitamin A and C).
    
7. Balls. A good way of boosting the sun protection of a product without using a chemical filter is by putting in a physical shield and silica spheres are a good example. These little spheres fill up some of the gaps that are left on the skin by your emulsion to give a better film. They work by reflecting light away from the surface like little tiny umbrellas. Because they are so small you can't see them or feel any grittiness. In fact, they usually give an emulsion a lovely smooth after-feel due to their ball-baring type action.

While there are many ways to boost your sun protection naturally it is important not to get carried away. I have read many blogs and articles that make outlandish claims about natural oils giving you and SPF of anything from 20 to 50 without providing a shred of evidence.There is no substitute for real efficacy testing when it comes to sun protection and if that is something that you either can't afford or don't see the need for it is best not to rely on your product as a primary sunscreen. However, what you can rely on is the fact that nature has provided us with some beautifully rich and active botanicals that have been proven to work with our skin to keep us looking good whatever the weather.

Boost your protection naturally and most of all stay sun safe this summer.

*We advise checking with your certification body before going ahead and formulating with any of these ingredients as while they are all naturally derived there is no guarantee that the ingredients will meet the specific requirements of your brand certifier.

Amanda Foxon-Hill

8 September 2011