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Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream with Avocado and Rosehip...
Published on by New Directions
Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream with Avocado and Rosehip Oil Formula
Formula Type: Viscous Cream
Suitable Packaging: Jar, Airless Pump
Formula Number: NDEC0012016
Application:
- Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream with Avocado and Rosehip Oil
Note:
- New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.
| Phase | %W/W | Raw Material | Function |
| A | 79.45 | Deionised Water | Solvent / diluent |
| 0.1 | Disodium EDTA | Chelating agent to help preservative work better | |
| 3 | Glycerin | Humectant | |
| 0.4 | Carbomer | Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser | |
| Heat phase A to 70-75°C . Mix until clear and until the carbomer is fully hydrated and smooth (carbomer can clump up if not mixed well, this will result in a thinner final viscosity and uneven texture) | |||
| B | 5.2 | Avocado Oil | Emollient |
| 2.5 | Emulsifying Wax SCG (Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) | Emollient | |
| 0.25 | Glyceryl Stearate Citrate | Emulsifier Secondary | |
| 0.5 | Cetearyl Alcohol | Soothing, anti-irritant | |
| 0.25 | Stearic acid | Skin feel | |
| Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below. The cream will be thin at this stage as the carbomer is un-neutralised. Also the oil phase is low as a significant percentage of oil is to be added in cool down. The emulsion will start to look richer once phase C and D are added. | |||
| C | 1 | Plantaserv P (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) | Preservative |
| 3 | Nature Lift (Dipropylene Glycol, Quercus Suber Bark Extract) | Active skin conditioner and texturiser. For tightening. | |
| 1.5 | Rosehip Oil | Emollient for barrier repair, essential fatty acids. | |
| 0.5 | Buriti Oil | Emollient enriched with natural vitamin A (carotenoids) for skin repair | |
| 2 | Evening Primrose Oil | Emollient | |
| 0.25 | Natural Vitamin E | Antioxidant for product and skin protection. | |
| 0.1 | Light aroma | Aroma | |
| Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream | |||
| D | qs | Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to around 5.5. The Carbomer won't thicken until the pH is adjusted. pH has to be adjusted with an alkali such as sodium hydroxide or Triethanolamine. Sodium Bicarbonate is not strong enough. | We need the higher pH to thicken the carbomer. |
| Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. pH will need to be around 5.5 to thicken the carbomer. | |||
| TOTAL | 100 | ||
More about:
Anti-Ageing, Cream Recipes, Eye Care, New Directions Starting Point Formula