Bearberry is well known for being a natural source of Arbutin derivatives that have skin brightening properties. Scientific literature describes the fresh plant chemistry as containing between 5-7% Arbutins with the dried herb typically containing 20-28%. In addition to the brightening complex this fruit also contains phenolic acids such as Ursolic Acid which is an anti-inflammatory, regenerative active.
Solubility: Being a herb this ingredient will not fully dissolve in any solvent but instead should be steeped into a carrier and then filtered before using it in your product. Both the Arbutin and the Ursolic Acid are water souble so we recommend creating an extraction with water, water/glycerin or water/alcohol and then filtering it. The herb is a 5:1 extract which means it has been dehydrated so that 1 gram of dried herb contains as much active as 5g of fresh herb. You can make an extraction of any concentration you wish but we typically suggest using between 1-20% powdered herb into your solvent, steeping it to help extract the herb and then filtering. This would be equivalent to between 5-100% strength herbal liquid. The resulting liquid can then be dosed into your cosmetic at between 1-10% depending on the effect you desire. There is no guarantee that the extraction will liberate the chemistry you require although there are tests that can be done to check on the strength of the extracts but you could expect a theoretical concentration as follows:
1% of powder in solvent = max of 0.25% Arbutin in the liquid portion of your extraction. This is then used in your cosmeic product at 1-10% giving a theoretical arbutin concentration of 0.0025-0.025%
20% of powder in solvent = max of 5% of Arbutin in the liquid portion of your extraction. This is then used in your cosmetic product at 1-10% giving a theoretical arbutin concentration of 0.05-0.5%
The maximum concentration of Arbutin that is regarded as safe in a topical leave-on product is 2%.
Please Note: These products are for cosmetic use only and not to be consumed.
New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. does not supply food grade raw materials and therefore cannot waive GST.
Prior to use: Customers should always refer to the Material Safety Data Sheet / Specification Sheet OR the ingredients label as affixed to each product which are current at the time of supply of the product.
The information provided is for educational purposes only. Individuals receiving this information must exercise their independent judgment in determining its appropriateness for a particular purpose or use.As the ordinary or otherwise use(s) of products is outside the control of New Directions Australia Pty Ltd., no representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made as to the effect(s) of such use(s), (including damage or injury), or the results obtained. New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. expressly disclaims responsibility as to the ordinary or otherwise use(s). Furthermore, nothing contained herein should be considered as a recommendation by New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. as to the fitness for any use. The liability of New Directions Australia Pty Ltd. is limited to the value of the goods and does not include any consequential losses.