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Posts on topic: New Directions Starting Point Formula
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Published on by New Directions
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Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream with Avocado and Rosehip Oil Formula
Formula Type: Viscous Cream
Suitable Packaging: Jar, Airless Pump
Formula Number: NDEC0012016
Application:
- Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream with Avocado and Rosehip Oil
Note:
- New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.
| Phase | %W/W | Raw Material | Function |
| A | 79.45 | Deionised Water | Solvent / diluent |
| 0.1 | Disodium EDTA | Chelating agent to help preservative work better | |
| 3 | Glycerin | Humectant | |
| 0.4 | Carbomer | Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser | |
| Heat phase A to 70-75°C . Mix until clear and until the carbomer is fully hydrated and smooth (carbomer can clump up if not mixed well, this will result in a thinner final viscosity and uneven texture) | |||
| B | 5.2 | Avocado Oil | Emollient |
| 2.5 | Emulsifying Wax SCG (Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) | Emollient | |
| 0.25 | Glyceryl Stearate Citrate | Emulsifier Secondary | |
| 0.5 | Cetearyl Alcohol | Soothing, anti-irritant | |
| 0.25 | Stearic acid | Skin feel | |
| Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below. The cream will be thin at this stage as the carbomer is un-neutralised. Also the oil phase is low as a significant percentage of oil is to be added in cool down. The emulsion will start to look richer once phase C and D are added. | |||
| C | 1 | Plantaserv P (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) | Preservative |
| 3 | Nature Lift (Dipropylene Glycol, Quercus Suber Bark Extract) | Active skin conditioner and texturiser. For tightening. | |
| 1.5 | Rosehip Oil | Emollient for barrier repair, essential fatty acids. | |
| 0.5 | Buriti Oil | Emollient enriched with natural vitamin A (carotenoids) for skin repair | |
| 2 | Evening Primrose Oil | Emollient | |
| 0.25 | Natural Vitamin E | Antioxidant for product and skin protection. | |
| 0.1 | Light aroma | Aroma | |
| Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream | |||
| D | qs | Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to around 5.5. The Carbomer won't thicken until the pH is adjusted. pH has to be adjusted with an alkali such as sodium hydroxide or Triethanolamine. Sodium Bicarbonate is not strong enough. | We need the higher pH to thicken the carbomer. |
| Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. pH will need to be around 5.5 to thicken the carbomer. | |||
| TOTAL | 100 | ||
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Anti-Ageing, Cream Recipes, Eye Care, New Directions Starting Point Formula
Published on by New Directions
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Aloe and Camellia Day Cream Formula
Formula Type: Medium Viscosity Cream
Suitable Packaging: Bottle, Airless Pump.
Formula Number: NDMC0012016
Application:
- Aloe and Camellia Day Cream Base
Note:
- New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.
| Phase | %W/W | Raw Material | Function |
| A | 75 | Deionised Water | Solvent / diluent |
| 0.5 | Aloe Powder 200x Strength | Moisturiser/skin repair | |
| 0.1 | Disodium EDTA | Chelating agent to help preservative work better | |
| 3 | Glycerin | Humectant | |
| 0.25 | Xanthan Gum | Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser | |
| Heat phase A to 70-75°C. Mix until clear and until the xanthan gum is fully hydrated | |||
| B | 12 | Camellia Refined Oil | Emollient |
| 0.5 | Beeswax | Emollient, thickener | |
| 3.4 | Shea Butter | Emollient | |
| 0.5 | Glyceryl Stearate Citrate | Emulsifier Secondary | |
| 3 | Emulsifying wax vegetable (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) | Emulsifier Primary | |
| Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below. | |||
| C | 1 | Plantaserv P (phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) | Preservative |
| 0.25 | Natural Vitamin E(tocopherol) | Antioxidant for product and skin protection. | |
| 0.25 | Perfume of choice | Aroma | |
| Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream | |||
| D | qs | Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to 3.8-4.5 | The ideal pH for this type of moisturiser is between 5.5-7. The preservative works across a broad range of pH and the skin naturally sits at 4.5-5.5. pH can be adjusted here if necessary. Usually an un-adjusted base like this will have a pH around 7 as that is the pH of water, the main ingredient influencing pH. The EDTA can make the product more alkali though while the aloe tends to reduce pH. |
| Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. Adjust as necessary to pH 5.5-7 using citric acid to bring the pH down or Sodium Hydroxide to increase the pH. | |||
| TOTAL | 100 | ||
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Cream Recipes, New Directions Starting Point Formula
Published on by New Directions
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AHA and BHA Moisturising Lotion Formula
Suitable Packaging: Bottle, Airless Pump.
Formula Number: NDFL0012016
Application:
- AHA/BHA Lotion with Fruit Acids
Note:
- New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.
| Phase | %W/W | Raw Material | Function |
| A | 62.4 | Deionised Water | Solvent / diluent |
| 0.1 | Disodium EDTA | Chelating agent to help preservative work better | |
| 3 | Glycerin | Humectant | |
| 0.25 | Xanthan Gum | Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser | |
| Heat phase A to 70-75°C. Mix until clear and until the xanthan gum is fully hydrated | |||
| B | 6 | Fractionated Coconut Oil | Emollient |
| 2 | Macadamia Nut Oil | Emollient | |
| 2 | Beeswax | Emollient | |
| 2.5 | Shea Butter | Emollient | |
| 1.3 | Glyceryl Stearate Citrate | Emulsifier Secondary | |
| 2.2 | Emulsifying wax vegetable (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) | Emulsifier Primary | |
| 0.25 | Allantoin | Soothing, anti-irritant | |
| 1.5 | Salicylic Acid | BHA | |
| Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below. | |||
| C | 1 | Plantaserv P (Phenoxyethanol,Caprylyl Glycol) | Preservative |
| 15 | AHA Fruit Acids | Active AHA | |
| 0.25 | Natural Vitamin E | Antioxidant for product and skin protection. | |
| 0.25 | Perfume of choice | Aroma | |
| Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream | |||
| D | qs | Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to 3.8-4.5 | AHA treatments work best at pH less than 4 but if the pH is too low the product will be very irritating. We suggest a pH of 4-4.5 for retail products or 3.8-4.2 for salon products. For home use, use the higher pH. |
| Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. Adjust as necessary to pH 3.8-4.5 using citric acid to bring the pH down or Sodium Hydroxide to increase the pH. | |||
| TOTAL | 100 | ||
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Lotions, New Directions Starting Point Formula