Posts on topic: Cream Recipes

Recipes


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Chocolate Wrapper Shimmer Cream Recipe

 

Application:

  • This beautiful rich warming cream doubles as a shimmer/ bronzer for evening or day wear. Your skin will be left glowing and smelling of sweet dark chocolate. The perfect treat to warm you up as the weather cools down.

Instructions:

  1. Weigh your Body Custard out into a clean laboratory beaker.
  2. In a separate small heat-proof container measure out the Thermolat® , cocoa CO2 and vanilla. If the cocoa is solid you will need to gently heat this mixture in a water bath to melt it.
  3. Once melted and combined you can add the blend to the body custard using a spatula to mix it in. You will notice the base turning a little brown from the vanilla.
  4. Then get a more powerful mixer (a bar mixer is fine) to hand. Weigh the mica out into the cream and use the bar mixer to mix this fully into the base. Your product will look like a dark chocolate shimmer.
  5. Pop into a container and store ready for use.

Caution:

  • The Thermolat® can make the skin feel hot, it will not actually burn the skin, it is just interacting with your nerve impulses. However, care should be taken to not handle this ingredient with bare hands and to avoid the eye area as you may feel like this ingredient is stinging. The heating effect feeling will vary from person to person with some people feeling it very strongly and others not much at all. The heating sensation is typically felt more strongly on more delicate skin (back of neck, stomach etc than on the skin of the arms and legs. Take care when heating the fragrance component, do not use an open flame, only heat gently to around 40-50°C max using a water bath. This is just to soften the Cocoa butter. Always test a small sample of the product before using it all over. While these products may smell like they are edible we do not recommend ingesting them.
Ingredient %  
Unscented Body Custard 89 Rich emollient moisturiser base.
Cappuccino Mica 7 Double the richness of chocolate shimmer on skin by adding Cappuccino and Deep Brown Mica to get a deep, intoxicating glow.
Deep Brown Mica 2.4  
Vanilla 10 Fold Oil 0.1 Rich, sweet, natural aroma.
Cocoa CO2 0.5 Extra rich dark chocolate.
Thermolat® 1 Creates a warming sensation on the skin.
Total 100  

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Milk Chocolate Cream Recipe

 

Application:

  • Milk chocolate cream - light tan colour with deep chocolate odour
  • A luxurious, chocolaty body custard enriched with walnut oil and cranberry extract for deep skin conditioning. Walnut oil is a great source of anti-inflammatory Omega-3 and Cranberry Extract contains a range of antioxidants for skin protection.

Instructions:

  1. Weigh your Body Custard out into a clean laboratory beaker.
  2. In a separate container weigh out your walnut oil, vanilla and cocoa. Depending on the weather, the cocoa CO2 may be solid or liquid. If it is solid you can gently heat this mixture in a water bath to facilitate mixing. If all ingredients are liquid you can mix them without further warming.
  3. Add the aroma and oil into the body custard and mix well with a spatula.
  4. Add the cranberry extract and mix well.
  5. Add the Thermolat® ingredient and mix well.
  6. Pop into a container and store ready for use.

Caution:

  • The Thermolat® can make the skin feel hot, it will not actually burn the skin, it is just interacting with your nerve impulses. However, care should be taken to not handle this ingredient with bare hands and to avoid the eye area as you may feel like this ingredient is stinging. The heating effect feeling will vary from person to person with some people feeling it very strongly and others not much at all. The heating sensation is typically felt more strongly on more delicate skin (back of neck, stomach etc than on the skin of the arms and legs. Take care when heating the fragrance component, do not use an open flame, only heat gently to around 40-50°C max using a water bath. This is just to soften the Cocoa butter. Always test a small sample of the product before using it all over. While these products may smell like they are edible we do not recommend ingesting them.
Ingredient % Purpose
Unscented Body Custard 95.4 Rich emollient moisturiser base.
Walnut Oil 1.5 Deep skin conditioning oil with anti-inflammatory benefits
Vanilla 10 Fold Oil 0.3 Rich, sweet, natural aroma.
Cocoa CO2 0.3 Total chocolate indulgence.
Cranberry Extract 2 Antioxidant rich extract for skin protection.
Thermolat® 0.5 Creates a warming sensation on the skin.
Total 100  

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Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream with Avocado and Rosehip Oil Formula

 

Formula Type: Viscous Cream

Suitable Packaging: Jar, Airless Pump

Formula Number: NDEC0012016

Application:

  • Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream with Avocado and Rosehip Oil

Note:

  • New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.

Phase %W/W Raw Material Function
A 79.45 Deionised Water Solvent / diluent
  0.1 Disodium EDTA Chelating agent to help preservative work better
  3 Glycerin Humectant
  0.4 Carbomer Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser
Heat phase A to 70-75°C . Mix until clear and until the carbomer is fully hydrated and smooth (carbomer can clump up if not mixed well, this will result in a thinner final viscosity and uneven texture)
B 5.2 Avocado Oil Emollient
  2.5 Emulsifying Wax SCG (Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) Emollient
  0.25 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Emulsifier Secondary
  0.5 Cetearyl Alcohol Soothing, anti-irritant
  0.25 Stearic acid Skin feel
Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below. The cream will be thin at this stage as the carbomer is un-neutralised. Also the oil phase is low as a significant percentage of oil is to be added in cool down. The emulsion will start to look richer once phase C and D are added.
C 1 Plantaserv P (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin) Preservative
  3 Nature Lift (Dipropylene Glycol, Quercus Suber Bark Extract) Active skin conditioner and texturiser. For tightening.
  1.5 Rosehip Oil Emollient for barrier repair, essential fatty acids.
  0.5 Buriti Oil Emollient enriched with natural vitamin A (carotenoids) for skin repair
  2 Evening Primrose Oil Emollient
  0.25 Natural Vitamin E Antioxidant for product and skin protection.
  0.1 Light aroma Aroma
Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream
D qs Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to around 5.5. The Carbomer won't thicken until the pH is adjusted. pH has to be adjusted with an alkali such as sodium hydroxide or Triethanolamine. Sodium Bicarbonate is not strong enough. We need the higher pH to thicken the carbomer.
Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. pH will need to be around 5.5 to thicken the carbomer.
TOTAL 100    
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Aloe and Camellia Day Cream Formula

 

Formula Type: Medium Viscosity Cream

Suitable Packaging: Bottle, Airless Pump.

Formula Number: NDMC0012016

Application:

  • Aloe and Camellia Day Cream Base

Note:

  • New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.

Phase %W/W Raw Material Function
A 75 Deionised Water Solvent / diluent
  0.5 Aloe Powder 200x Strength Moisturiser/skin repair
  0.1 Disodium EDTA Chelating agent to help preservative work better
  3 Glycerin Humectant
  0.25 Xanthan Gum Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser
Heat phase A to 70-75°C. Mix until clear and until the xanthan gum is fully hydrated
B 12 Camellia Refined Oil Emollient
  0.5 Beeswax Emollient, thickener
  3.4 Shea Butter Emollient
  0.5 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Emulsifier Secondary
  3 Emulsifying wax vegetable (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) Emulsifier Primary
Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below.
C 1 Plantaserv P (phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin)  Preservative
  0.25 Natural Vitamin E(tocopherol) Antioxidant for product and skin protection.
  0.25 Perfume of choice Aroma
Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream
D qs Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to 3.8-4.5 The ideal pH for this type of moisturiser is between 5.5-7. The preservative works across a broad range of pH and the skin naturally sits at 4.5-5.5. pH can be adjusted here if necessary. Usually an un-adjusted base like this will have a pH around 7 as that is the pH of water, the main ingredient influencing pH. The EDTA can make the product more alkali though while the aloe tends to reduce pH.
Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. Adjust as necessary to pH 5.5-7 using citric acid to bring the pH down or Sodium Hydroxide to increase the pH.
TOTAL 100    
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Rich Luxurious Hand Cream Recipe

 

Application:

  • Rich Luxurious Hand Cream

Equipment:

  • Container to put the cream in (we recommend using the Tottle rap 50ml or 100ml)

Instructions:

  • Melt the waxes, oils and butters together in a double boiler (= Oil phase)
  • Heat water to 70-75 °C (or boil water and let it cool to 70-75 °C )
  • Add the heated water to the oil phase.
  • Blend with a stick blender for about 2 minutes (try to avoid to get too much air in there)
  • Let it rest, then blend every 10 minutes until temperature cools to 42-44 °C
  • This mixture should still be quite pourable.
  • Add the preservative and fragrance and give it one final blend
  • Put your cream in the container.
  • The cream will be ready to use after 24hrs when it has set
Ingredients Approx. Volume
Avocado Oil 10ml
Macadamia Oil 24ml
Demineralised Water 198ml
Certified Organic Honey 14g
Emulsifying Wax Vegetable 14g
Stearic Acid 8.5g
Vitamin E Synthetic or Vitamin E Natural 2g or1.5g
Beeswax Pastilles 5g
Cocoa Butter 8g
Mango Butter 8g
Preservatice of your choice (Plantaserve E is recommended) 3g
Fragrant or Essential Oil of your choice 1.5ml

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Anti-Ageing Night Cream Recipe

 

Application:

  • A moisturising night cream loaded with antioxidants.

Ingredients:

  • 100ml Night Cream, unscented
  • 1g Green Tea Extract
  • 7 drops East Indian Sandalwood Essential Oil
  • 7 drops French Lavender Essential Oil
  • 1g Vitamin E Natural

Equipment:

  • 500mL Measuring Jug or Beaker
  • Spatula
  • 1ml pipette or measured dropper
  • 1 x 120ml Frosted Boston round glass jar
  • 1 x 58mm Metal Ring Groove Cap - Matt Silver

Instructions:

  • Mix all ingredients together in the measuring jug/beaker.
  • Carefully pour into jar.

Directions For Use:

  • Apply every night after cleansing and toning

Storage:

  • For immediate use. Store in a cool environment away from direct sunlight & use within a few weeks. If extended storage is required, please ensure adequate levels of preservatives, antioxidants or other additives are used according to your individual requirements.

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Sorbolene Cream Vegetable Base Recipe

 

Application:

  • Moisturising Hand & Body Cream

PHASE % W/W RAW MATERIAL QTY
      gms per Kg
A 54 DEIONISED WATER 540
  3 CETOMACROGOL 1000 30
  10 VEGETABLE GLYCERINE 100
  10 SUNFLOWER OIL 100
  10 SHEA BUTTER 100
  12 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 120
1. HEAT THE MIXTURE TO 70 - 75°C
2. MIX UNTIL A UNIFORM EMULSION HAS FORMED (HOMOGENISATION WOULD ASSIST).
3. BEGIN COOLING TO 45 - 50°C WITH STIRRING.
B 1 PLANTASERV Q 10
4. ADD THE PRESERVATIVE AND MIX UNTIL UNIFORM.
5. COOL TO ROOM TEMPERATURE
C   DEIONISED WATER 0
6. ADJUST VOLUME/WEIGHT TO COMPENSATE FOR WATER LOSS DURING MANUFACTURE
TOTAL 100   1000
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Sorbolene Cream BP Recipe

 

Application:

  • Moisturising Hand & Body Cream

PHASE % W/W RAW MATERIAL QTY
      gms per Kg
A 54 DEIONISED WATER 540
  3 CETOMACROGOL 1000 30
  10 GLYCERINE 100
  10 PARAFFIN LIQUID OIL 100
  10 PETROLATUM 100
  12 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 120
1. HEAT THE MIXTURE TO 70 - 75°C
2. MIX UNTIL A UNIFORM EMULSION HAS FORMED (HOMOGENISATION WOULD ASSIST).
3. BEGIN COOLING TO 45 - 50°C WITH STIRRING.
B 1 PLANTASERV P 10
4. ADD THE PRESERVATIVE AND MIX UNTIL UNIFORM.
5. COOL TO ROOM TEMPERATURE
C   DEIONISED WATER 0
6. ADJUST VOLUME/WEIGHT TO COMPENSATE FOR WATER LOSS DURING MANUFACTURE
TOTAL 100   1000
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Rich Sorbolene Cream Vegetable Base Recipe

 

Application:

  • Superior Treatment Hand & Body Cream - Intensive Moisturising

PHASE % W/W RAW MATERIAL QTY
      gms per Kg
A 52 DEIONISED WATER 520
  3 CETOMACROGOL 1000 30
  10 VEGETABLE GLYCERINE 100
  3.3333 AVOCADO OIL 33.333
  3.3333 ROSEHIP OIL 33.333
  3.3333 EVENING PRIMROSE OIL 33.333
  5 SHEA BUTTER 50
  5 COCOABUTTER 50
  9 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 90
1. HEAT THE MIXTURE TO 70 - 75°C
2. MIX UNTIL A UNIFORM EMULSION HAS FORMED (HOMOGENISATION WOULD ASSIST).
3. BEGIN COOLING TO 45 - 50°C WITH STIRRING.
B 1 PLANTASERV Q 10
  3 NATURAL VITAMIN E 30
  2 SILK PROTEIN AMINO ACIDS 20
4. ADD THE PRESERVATIVE AND ACTIVES. MIX UNTIL UNIFORM.
5. COOL TO ROOM TEMPERATURE
C   DEIONISED WATER 0
6. ADJUST VOLUME/WEIGHT TO COMPENSATE FOR WATER LOSS DURING MANUFACTURE
TOTAL 100   1000
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Cetrimide Cream Vegetable Base Recipe

 

Application:

  • Antiseptic Hand & Body Cream Base

PHASE % W/W RAW MATERIAL QTY
      gms per Kg
A 43.5 DEIONISED WATER 435
  0.5 CETRMIDE BP 5
  50 SUNFLOWER OIL 500
  5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 50
1. HEAT THE MIXTURE TO 70 - 75°C
2. MIX UNTIL A UNIFORM EMULSION HAS FORMED (HOMOGENISATION WOULD ASSIST).
3. BEGIN COOLING TO 45 - 50°C WITH STIRRING.
B 1 PLANTASERV Q 10
4. ADD THE PRESERVATIVE AND MIX UNTIL UNIFORM.
5. COOL TO ROOM TEMPERATURE
C   DEIONISED WATER 0
6. ADJUST VOLUME/WEIGHT TO COMPENSATE FOR WATER LOSS DURING MANUFACTURE
TOTAL 100   1000
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