AHA and BHA Moisturising Lotion Formula

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AHA and BHA Moisturising Lotion Formula


Suitable Packaging: Bottle, Airless Pump.

Formula Number: NDFL0012016


  • AHA/BHA Lotion with Fruit Acids


  • New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.

Phase %W/W Raw Material Function
A 62.4 Deionised Water Solvent / diluent
  0.1 Disodium EDTA Chelating agent to help preservative work better
  3 Glycerin Humectant
  0.25 Xanthan Gum Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser
Heat phase A to 70-75°C. Mix until clear and until the xanthan gum is fully hydrated
B 6 Fractionated Coconut Oil Emollient
  2 Macadamia Nut Oil Emollient
  2 Beeswax Emollient
  2.5 Shea Butter Emollient
  1.3 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Emulsifier Secondary
  2.2 Emulsifying wax vegetable (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) Emulsifier Primary
  0.25 Allantoin Soothing, anti-irritant
  1.5 Salicylic Acid BHA
Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below.
C 1 Plantaserv P (Phenoxyethanol,Caprylyl Glycol)  Preservative
  15 AHA Fruit Acids Active AHA
  0.25 Natural Vitamin E Antioxidant for product and skin protection.
  0.25 Perfume of choice Aroma
Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream
D qs Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to 3.8-4.5 AHA treatments work best at pH less than 4 but if the pH is too low the product will be very irritating. We suggest a pH of 4-4.5 for retail products or 3.8-4.2 for salon products. For home use, use the higher pH.
Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. Adjust as necessary to pH 3.8-4.5 using citric acid to bring the pH down or Sodium Hydroxide to increase the pH.