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It's fair to say that if you want to make palm oil free moisturisers at the moment your emulsifier options are quite limited. Most of the larger ingredient manufacturers continue to pursue one level of palm oil certification or another and while some of these programs and initiatives are resulting in environmental protection and progress, others are achieving less. Wherever there is a gap in our ability to trust or gain control over a system there is a decision to be made and for some brands that decision has been to evacuate the palm space altogether. If this is you then you might like to try our new olive oil emulsifier.
posted by Amanda Foxon-Hill on Oct 23, 2017
We have created a simple 'cheat sheet' to help brand owners identify which of our actives can achieve a particular benefit when used in the right formulating environment. The idea of this sheet is to help short cut the active selection process thus leaving more time for you to think about optimising the ingredient in your base. The best to view such a cheat sheet is as a 'door opener' or 'introduction agency' that helps you take the first steps into an exciting new world! The cheat sheet says very little and yet quite a lot at the same time, helping you to hone in on the individuals (actives) that might be able to help in your search for efficacy (results)...
posted by Amanda Foxon-Hill on Oct 19, 2017
In cosmetic science, as in all aspects of life, it is important to be careful of the stories you tell in case they come back and bite you. The 'chemical' free preservative story is one such case but, as it is a story that many people want to tell (and I can understand why) it is one we should explore pro-actively, so that we might write our own product narrative on fact rather than fiction. With that in mind, this is a story about preserving your product with Radishes and Coconuts...
posted by Amanda Foxon-Hill on Sep 26, 2017
For many the bright lights hustle and bustle and vibrancy of the city is exciting and full of opportunity and promise. That may well be true but what's also true is the fact that big city living may well be conspiring against our skin, ageing us prematurely and leaving us itchy, dry and a little bit more wrinkled. This, my friends, is a story about urban pollution...
posted by Amanda Foxon-Hill on Sep 11, 2017
The outrage that was felt when somebody, somewhere realised that some of the exfoliating micro beads found in cosmetic facial and body scrubs were sometimes made from little pieces of plastic was interesting given that the majority of the aforementioned products were packaged in more plastic than the beads could ever be responsible for. However, it caused a stir that went all the way up to government level in many countries around the world and resulted in a dramatic change in scrubbing behaviour - plastic scrub beads are now a very dirty word. As great as this growing awareness to materials and their life-cycle is, it does beg the question 'what about the packaging' and more specifically 'what choices do cosmetic brand and business owners have'. Where are we up to with all that?
posted by Amando Foxon-Hill on Jul 25, 2017
Vegetable oils are not created equally with regards to chemistry. In fact you couldn’t get a more diverse set of ingredients (that we all tend to take for granted)...
posted by Amanda Foxon-Hill on Jun 20, 2017
The saying that 'nothing lasts forever' is partially true for essential oils. While some actually seem to get better with age, others will fair much, much worse and start smelling flat and generally causing trouble. What we want to know is who, what, where, when and how? Most of all we want to know if there is any science behind the common advice of storing in a 'cool, dry place' or the other favourite 'put them in the fridge'...
posted by Amanda Foxon-Hill on Apr 10, 2017
Is a certified organic brand the only authentic way to offer a good, safe and clean product?

Without a shadow of a doubt, the majority of people who we meet here at New Directions are keen to enter the cosmetic industry with their very own organic brand. Organics is seen as the epitome of purity, freshness and authenticity in a world of fake news, fake looks and fake promises but is developing or owning a certified organic brand the answer?
posted by Amanda Foxon-Hill on Mar 29, 2017
According to the climate council of Australia 205 weather records were broken across the country this summer and boy did our skin feel it! Whether it's hot and dry, hot and wet or hot and humid our skin has to adjust and acclimatize to the conditions in order help maintain its barrier function and with so many extreme days our skin definitely had its work cut out. But now the winds have shifted and the calendar has flicked over to autumn, an in-between season, and a break from the extremes maybe. But rather than sit back and feel like our skin and our beauty routine can have a rest the best thing we can do now is take this opportunity to get busy...
posted by Amanda Foxon-Hill on Mar 14, 2017
Coenzyme Q10 is one of those ingredients that are easy to over-look. It has been the subject of scientific study since the 1970s when its role as a cellular energy booster was scrutinized and put to the test to 'cure' or relieve a number of different medical conditions.
posted by Amanda Foxon-Hill on Mar 09, 2017
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